Broad Peak Expedition

Expedition to Broad Peak Gilgit Baltistan

Broad Peak Expedition is a popular adventure climb. Broad Peak is one the highest mountains of the world. Due to its immense bulk it is named the Broad Peak. “Falchan Kangri” is the name give to this gigantic peak by the local people of Baltistan. In the surrounding of Broad Peak it has a very strong presence among the other mountains.

Broad Peak is among the 14 above 8000m peaks that towers above Concordia. It is located at the heart of Karakoram Range and it dominates the entire mountain scene along the Baltoro Glacier. It is situated on the frontier of Pakistan and China and it stand high between the K2 and Gasherbrum Peaks. On 9 June, 1957 an Austrian Expedition team consisted of Marcus Schmuch, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl went on the Broad Peak Expedition and made history by conquering it. This team was lead by Marcus Schmuck and the successful campaign turned many mountaineers to go for the Broad Peak Expedition. The campaign was accomplished without any supplemental oxygen. There was no base camp support and apparently they made it successful with out any high altitude porter.

The route to Broad Peak Expedition, Camp 1 involves ascending via a rock gully at the elevation of 6000m which is followed by a large snow face that leads to Camp 2 which is on an elevation of 6400. The final camp lies at an elevation of 7400m, from this point the bid to summit is made.

Broad Peak Expedition climb does not involve any extreme steepness however the remote setting will make the experience of climbing this magnificient peak highly rewarding. No matter if you are a beginner or master climber the nature of the climb in the Baltoro Region will have its unique experience.

In 2005, Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov climbed the Broad Peak via South West Face. This was a new route to be ever used. Another time in 2008 Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev made the ascend to Broad Peak’s central pillar up the West Face via a variation route in Alpine Style.

Today, many teams use the moderate climbing of the Broad Peak in order to acclimatize themselves for a rapid alpine style ascent of the K2. The main route via the west ridge is moderately strenuous but like every other mountain in the Karakoram range, weather is often the determining factor. Only five people have climbed twice Broad Peak and no one more than that.

Broad Peak is one of the mountains where many stop at the fore-summit, never reach the actual summit and claim to have climbed Broad Peak. A short route overview reveals 4 possible routes: the Standard route on the west ridge, the Carsolio Route on the west ridge to south face, the Long Summit Ridge Traverse and the South Face Ridge. Pick up one route with the local school guides assistance and have the time of your life by mountaineering on the Broad Peak

Broad Expedition Information